- Always try to look at the outline of the dog instead of straight into the coat. The silhouette that you create should look as much as possible like the breed standard and you can only get that by moving to allow yourself to see the outline you are making. In creating a shape, like a straight line narrower at the top on the front leg of a terrier or a rounded topknot on a poodle, you need to always look at the edges of the shape. A mirror on the opposite side of your table can let you see that outline on the other side without having to walk around the table or move the dog.
- Hold your shears in the position recommended by most top stylists; the pad of the thumb resting in the thumbhole and the ring finger in the finger hole. Don’t push your fingers into the holes to the knuckles, use the pads of finger/thumb. It gives more accuracy and less hand fatigue. Move only your thumb. Keep your hand in a natural, comfortable position similar to putting a hand out for someone to shake. Your wrist should be relaxed and not bent. If your fingers are too small for the holes, get finger and thumbhole inserts. If the inserts are too big cut a tiny piece out and put it back inside the hole so the ends meet with no gap. Too large? Use two, cutting the inner one to size. Or get shears with smaller finger holes.
- Use a shear with a cutting blade as long as is reasonable for what you are doing. This allows you to make fewer cuts increasing accuracy and lessening the potential for repetitive motion injury as you are repeating the motion less.
- Keep your shears sharp. Dull shears are more dangerous and fold hair before cutting, leaving uneven lines. The minute you think they are cutting less efficiently, have them sharpened by someone you trust. The New England Grooming Show is coming up in Sturbridge MA and there will be sharpeners there if you are looking for someone good.
For more information, see our Guide to Shears
By Carol Visser, Journalist, Master Pet Groomer, Certified Dog Trainer, Pet Product Expert
